Trekking in Nepal Part Two: The Experience

Trekking to Everest Base Camp has long been on my bucket list. Upon confirming my trip assignment with Travel Her Way, I promptly began researching, intent on finding out exactly what I had gotten myself into.

Surprisingly, finding solid stats on the route is a little bit tricky on the good. Many sites offer generalizations on how long it will take for each leg of the journey, but finding objective stats requires some digging.

The total distance is roughly 130 km or 80.7 miles, though you’ll deviate slightly depending on your actual route and any side excursions. You’ll gain over 9,000 ft from Lukla to Kala Patthar. In and of itself, that doesn’t sound as daunting but when you consider the net elevation change from all of the ups and downs along the trail paired with the altitude, it’s a serious challenge.

Our specific route: our trek with Travel Her Way spanned 12 days: 9 days up, 3 days down. This is a common itinerary, but you can certainly make it longer or shorter depending on your groups needs and abilities. Below are descriptions of each segment with rough mileage for each one. As you plan, bear in mind the difficulties of trekking at altitude.

Day 1: flight from Kathmandu to Lukla. Trek from Lukla to Phadking.

Trekking distance: 4 miles

It’s important to note that transportation from Kathmandu to Lukla is the crux of this day. Swiftly changing weather creates the potential for waiting for hours if not days for a viable flight window. At the time I’m writing this blog, flights from Kathmandu have been severely limited, forcing folks to either rely on helicopters for transport (the most expensive route) or to take a 5-8 hour drive to Ramechhap from Kathmandu to catch a flight to Lukla from there. If you can, build in a little wiggle room to allow for flight delays.

Day 2: Phadking to Namche Bazaar

Trekking distance: 6 miles

Begin your day with a mellow ascent that gradually becomes steeper. Enjoy crossing the iconic suspension bridges and your first encounters with cows and yaows (cow-yak hybrids). The final climb of the day rises steeply to Namche Bazaar where you will rest and relax.

Day 3: Rest and acclimatization day in Namche

Get a good night of sleep and a hearty breakfast, then do an acclimatization hike. Hike destination varies depending on weather, and may include a visit to the Everest View Point, the Sherpa Museum, and Everest View Hotel. Plan on 2-4 hours of hiking with up to 6 miles of distance. Upon returning, spend the afternoon wandering the streets of Namche and catch a regular screening of a documentary about the Sherpa People in any one of the coffee shops.

Day 4: Namche Bazaar to Tengboche

Trekking distance: 5.3 miles

Start the trek with a relatively easy climb to a long stretch of “Nepali flat,” gently rolling sections of trail with stunning views of Ama Dablam. Descend sharply for lunch, then ascend sharply to reach Tengboche.

Day 5: Tengboche to Dingboche

Trekking distance: 6.7 miles

I highly recommend waking up for a chance at sunrise over Ama Dablam. It’s a stunning sight that you won’t soon forget. The trek begins with a downhill stretch through massive rhododendrons. If you’re lucky, you’ll catch them in full bloom. Eventually you hit a small section of Nepali flat before gaining gradually the rest of the day.

Day 6: Rest and acclimatization day in Dingboche

At over 14,000 ft of elevation, you might be feeling it when you reach Dingboche. Eat a hearty dinner, get some sleep, and awake as refreshed as possible for an acclimatization hike. Depending on weather and spirits, you might hike to Nangkartshang Gompa or the hill behind Dingboche for stunning views and further exposure to the history and culture of the area.

Day 7: Dingboche (14,468) to Lobuche (16,814)

Distance: 10.9 miles

Continue trekking gradually upwards through rolling alpine landscapes. Stop at Chukpo Lari, a place of remembrance for those who have lost their lives on Everest. Go slowly, take deep breaths, and soak it in.

Day 8: Lobuche to Gorakshep, Gorakshep to EBC, EBC to Gorakshep

Part 1: Lobuche to Gorakshep. Trekking distance: 2.7 miles

You’ll start this day early and begin the trek to Gorakshep where you’ll eat, drop anything that’s not essential, and then continue on to the ultimate destination: Everest Base Camp!

Part 2: Gorakshep to EBC. Trekking distance: 2.2 miles

Climb carefully through rocky ridgelines. Though the trek is short, the undulating landscape and the elevation make it challenging so bring snacks and keep putting one foot in front of the other. Bring layers so you can wait for your chance to take a picture with the famous Everest Base Camp signs and pat yourself on the back!

Part 3: EBC to Gorakshep. Trekking distance: 2.2 miles.

Carefully descent back to Gorakshep for dinner and sleep. You did it!

Day 9: Gorakshep to Kala Patthar, Kala Patthar to Pheriche

Part 1: Gorakshep to Kala Patthar. Trekking Distance: 0.9 miles

Depending on your itinerary, you might do this the same day as Everest Base Camp or the next. Make the short, steep climb behind Gorakshep to Kala Patthar with stunning views of several surrounding mountains. This will be the elevation high point of your trip. Take pictures, then begin the trek down.

Part 2: Kala Patthar to Pheriche. Trekking distance: 7.6 miles

A rather steep descent will bring you below 14,000 feet and you’ll be breathing easier! If you can, stay at the Edelweiss teahouse for a delightful experience!

Day 10: Pheriche to Namche Bazaar

Trekking distance: 12.2 miles

Take in the views and prepare to sweat as you climb and descend until reaching Namche Bazaar. A long day makes the sight of Namche that much more special. Make sure you grab any last minute souvenirs here before heading out. Also, if you’ve had to dip into “tip” cash, grab some at the ATM before leaving.

Day 11: Namche Bazaar to Lukla

Trekking distance: 11.3 miles

The last long day before you’re done! The trail gains and descends through familiar territory. Keep your eyes on the prize and finish strong!

Day 12: Lukla to Kathmandu

Much like your flight to Lukla from Kathmandu, you’ll want to allow some wiggle room for your return flight if the weather turns. It’s also customary to spend your last night in Lukla with your guides and porters, treating them to dinner, drinks, and giving them their tips as many of them will not be returning to Kathmandu with you.

Gear Review: The Self Care Edition

I spend a lot of showerless days and uncomfortable nights in the mountains, playing hard and getting dirty. In honor of the hard work my body puts in, I like to treat myself in the mountains and when I get back home. These are a few of my favorite products and services to do just that*!

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1. Ursa Major Essential Face Wipes

I take these lightweight wipes into the backcountry to keep my face clean and happy while I get after it! Bonus points: they smell AMAZING!

2. Chuao Chocolates

Don't be fooled by the label, these are actually little squares of joy! Tuck a few in the snack pouch of your pack for a pick-me-up on the trail, or save them for dessert. I always keep a few squares around for a sweet break!

3. Alpen Organics Mind & Body

Whether I’m looking for a cream to rub on bruises and sore spots or something to calm my mind and help me fall asleep when thoughts of bears dance through my brain, these are my go-to products! Use code “MISSMEGHANYOUNG” for a little discount when you check out!

4. Backpacker’s Pantry Crème Brulee

This has become a mountain tradition for long days in the alpine. Nothing says “GOOD WORK!” like tucking in to some delicious creme brûlée after a successful (or unsuccessful) summit with the crew! You’ll go to bed with a full tummy and smile on your face!

5. Feathered Friends Down Booties/Pants

When the weather gets cold, I don’t leave home without my down pants and booties. Lightweight and compactible, they easily fit in my pack and keep me toasty warm when we are snow camping or hanging around in super cold environments.

6. West Seattle Chiropractics

Heavy packs and strenuous days wreak havoc on my body. I’m especially prone to lower back issues ever since a snowboarding accident left me with some herniated discs and a fractured tailbone. The combination of chiropractic work + professional massage therapy keeps me feeling good and going strong during mountain season. I can’t recommend the amazing folks at West Seattle Chiro enough!

7. Dermalogica Daily Microfoliant

I’m a sunscreen fanatic and after a few days in the backcountry, you can’t miss the layer of sweat, sunscreen, bug spray and dirt all over my face. This gentle scrub takes it all off and leaves my skin soft and glowing. Let’s be real: no one wants pimples in the backcountry or after an epic trip and this scrub helps keep me breakout free for all those IG stories ;)

8. Marketspice Cinnamon Orange Tea

Whether I’m in the backcountry or at home, this fragrant tea warms me up with it’s bold spices and cinnamon flavor. Pro tip: it’s equally delicious by it’s own or with a little bourbon thrown in for a nighttime toddy!

Do you have self-care favorites for the backcountry or home? I would love to hear about them!

*I have not been paid for these endorsements in any way.

Gear Review: Arc'teryx Norvan VT GTX

I'm the kind of person who resists wearing boots whenever possible. I prefer the weight and feel of trailrunners as I cruise up and down the trail. They offer stability, sticky rubber, and the breathability I want when I'm outside. Nevertheless, finding something comfortable for my wide foot has been tricky. Enter the Norvan VT GTX.

Taking in the views from the summit of Black Peak.

Taking in the views from the summit of Black Peak.

Lightweight yet supportive, they have become my go-to for everything from day hikes to summit scrambles! I wore them on the summit of Shuksan, all the way up and down Glacier Peak via the Gerdine Ridge, and even out and about in town!

Pros: 

  • lightweight
  • adjustable lace system for extra support on the downhill
  • super rad colors
  • supportive and comfortable, even for my wide feet

Cons:

  • not available in metallic colors
  • better suited for lighter pack loads
  • mesh side vents are susceptible to tearing in heavy scree

All things considered, this is a great shoe that I will wear until they give out, and then get another pair!

 

Gear Review: Katadyn BeFree

I drink a lot of water when we hit the trail and I'm always looking for the easiest, fastest, and tastiest way to fill up from alpine lakes and streams.

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Enter the Katadyn BeFree water filtration system. Lightweight and super easy to use, they consist of two parts: a bottle or "flask" and a filter that's built into the cap. 

Remove the filter, fill the bag at your favorite lake or stream, pop the top back on and away you go. As an added bonus, the filter is super easy to clean. Just pop it off, swish it around in the water, then pop it back in. I have been using mine for several months now and it has saved us so much time on the trail!

The Pros:

  •  lightweight and very packable
  • incredibly easy to use
  • incredibly easy to clean
  • comes in a variety of sizes

The Cons:

  • bacterial filter only; check out some of their other products if you're traveling to an area with known viral contaminants
  • not the best option for large groups
  • not suitable for freezing weather

All things considered, this is a great option if you're hitting the trail in the Spring, Summer and Fall and you want to go fast and light. 10/10 would recommend!

Gear Review: Arc'teryx Cerium SV Hoody

Imagine for a second that you're standing on the summit of Prusik Peak, the wind blowing through your sweaty hair as you take in the views. You pull on your Arc'teryx Cerium SV Hoody and next thing you know, you're cocooned in soft, downy warmth as you watch the sun slowly sink over the distant hills with you friends. It's the stuff of dreams and I'm not talking about the sunset!

I have had my Cerium for a year and it has taken me from freezing temps in the Cascades to blustery days in the Swiss alps. It's my go to down piece and I don't go on any big adventures without it. It's lightweight, highly compressible, and works as a standalone piece or a mid layer, depending on temps and conditions.  The hood fits over my helmet and the slightly longer cut hits my hips, with extra length in the back for added warmth. As an added bonus, it's my favorite shade of blue and reminds me of an alpine lake in summer! If you're looking for a new down piece, I highly recommend this one. Pop into Arc'teryx Seattle if you're local or check out their website for all the options, then get after it!